This updated guide explains the defining features of formal dress shirts - collars (cutaway/spread, wing, stiff/detachable, and point), cuff options (single or French), front styles (plain, pleated, pique9 bib), recommended materials, and the appropriate occasions for white-tie and black-tie dress shirts. It notes that modern tailoring has diversified styles while preserving key traditions like studs, cufflinks, and the absence of pockets on evening shirts.

What defines a dress shirt?

A formal dress shirt is designed to be worn with a tuxedo (black tie) or tailcoat (white tie). These shirts typically have a clean front, minimal or no pockets, and features that allow for detachable studs and cufflinks. Fabrics range from fine cotton poplin and twill for softer fronts to pique9 for the stiffer white-tie bib.

Common collar types

  • Cutaway/Spread collars: These collars angle outward toward the shoulders to accommodate wider knots and a modern, open look. Some extreme versions are called wide cutaways.
  • Wing collar: Short, stiff points that fold down like small wings. This collar is traditional with white-tie attire and pairs with a stiff, starched front.
  • Stiff detachable collars: Historically common with eveningwear, detachable starched collars still exist but are far less common today. 1
  • Regular/point collars: Narrower and more traditional, these collars are common on less formal dress shirts.

Cuffs and fastenings

Formal shirts come with single (button) cuffs or double cuffs (French cuffs). Double cuffs fold back and fasten with cufflinks; they are considered more formal. Shirt fronts for black- and white-tie wear are often fastened with studs rather than visible buttons, and studs are frequently sold as sets with matching cufflinks in materials like black onyx, mother of pearl, gold, or silver.

Front styles and construction

Evening shirts may have a plain front, a bib (pique9) front, or narrow "pencil" pleats. White-tie shirts typically use a stiff pique9 bib that holds shape and pairs with a wing or stiff collar. Dinner-jacket (black-tie) shirts are generally softer, sometimes with a plain or pleated front and a turn-down collar.

The classic formal shirt usually avoids chest pockets. Many modern formal shirts use a French placket or a hidden placket for a cleaner appearance. Older references mention a specific number of buttons on the front; contemporary styles vary and do not follow a single standard. 2

When to wear which shirt

  • White tie: Reserved for state occasions, very formal weddings, state banquets, and other events that specify "white tie." Use a wing or stiff collar with a pique9 bib and studs.
  • Black tie: More common. Wear a soft-front or pleated shirt with a turn-down collar and either studs or concealed buttons. Black-tie is appropriate for many weddings, charity balls, evening receptions, and formal dinners.
Formal dress shirts remain rooted in tradition, but contemporary tailoring and fabrics have made them more comfortable and varied while keeping the conventions that mark white- and black-tie attire.
  1. Confirm whether the Windsor name is correctly and currently applied to a specific cutaway collar style and clarify usage.
  2. Verify historical claim that dress shirts traditionally have seven front buttons and whether that number is still a referenced standard.
  3. Confirm the contemporary prevalence and laundering practices of detachable starched collars (frequency of use and care practices).

FAQs about Dress Shirts

What collar should I wear with white tie?
Wear a wing collar or a stiff detachable collar with a pique9 bib front when the dress code calls for white tie.
Are French cuffs required for formal events?
French (double) cuffs are traditional and more formal because they use cufflinks, but single-button cuffs may be acceptable for less strict black-tie events.
What is pique9 and when is it used?
Pique9 is a textured, tightly woven cotton used for stiff bib fronts on white-tie shirts; it helps the shirt hold a crisp shape.
Should a formal dress shirt have a pocket?
No. Traditional formal dress shirts for black- or white-tie wear do not have chest pockets.
When do I use studs instead of buttons?
Studs are commonly used for evening shirts with pleated or pique9 fronts, especially in white-tie wear. They offer a cleaner, decorative fastening than visible buttons.

News about Dress Shirts

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