This update surveys the legacy of royal jewelry in South Asia: the courtly styles associated with Razia Sultana, Mughal icons like the Peacock Throne and the Taj Mahal, regional collections such as those from Mysore and Hyderabad, and the dispersal of treasures through war, colonial acquisition and later auctions. It points readers to surviving collections and notes that specific provenance and auction claims require verification.

A living tradition of jewelry

Visiting India's historical monuments shows how deeply jewelry shaped the region's visual culture. Gold, enamel, and gemstone work created under medieval courts still inspire contemporary designers across the subcontinent. Mughal tastes - rich gold surfaces set with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and turquoises - remain visible in modern bridal and ceremonial jewelry.

Women, power and ornament

Razia Sultana (ruled 1236-1240) stands out as one of the few medieval Muslim women to rule in South Asia. Contemporary images and later portraits associate her era with courtly finery, and historians note how rulers used dress and jewelry to signal rank and authority. Nur Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal are later Mughal figures whose patronage and association with court style further shaped fashions and jewelry-making techniques.

Mughal symbols: Peacock Throne and the Taj

The Mughal court produced iconic objects that symbolize imperial taste. Shah Jahan's Peacock Throne, famed for its gem-studded canopy, embodied Mughal luxury until it was taken by Nader Shah in 1739. The Taj Mahal - the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal - and other royal tombs and palaces preserved motifs, gemstones, and metalwork that artisans continue to study and reproduce.

Regional variety and loss through conflict

South Asia's jewelry traditions varied by region. Southern courts such as Mysore and Hyderabad developed distinct styles and techniques. Over centuries, wars, looting and colonial transfers dispersed many treasures: some pieces were incorporated into foreign collections, others lost or melted down. The conflicts between Mughals and emerging powers including the Sikhs and later the British changed the custodianship of many royal collections.

Tipu Sultan and the afterlife of royal objects

Tipu Sultan of Mysore (d. 1799) is remembered for his resistance to the British and for the material culture of his court. Several objects associated with him - weapons, textiles and ornamental pieces - entered British hands after his defeat. Some of these items have been displayed in museums or appeared at auction over the past century; specific auction histories and provenance should be verified for individual pieces.

Where to see these collections today

Major Indian museums and palaces preserve and exhibit many courtly objects. In Hyderabad, for example, the Chowmahalla Palace and the Salar Jung Museum display artifacts connected to the Nizam and regional courts. Other national and regional museums across India, and some institutions abroad, hold Mughal and princely jewels.

Why it matters

Jewelry from India's courts carries aesthetic, technological and historical information: how gem cutters worked, how workshops transmitted skills, and how rulers used objects to make political claims. Studying surviving pieces - and tracing those lost or dispersed - helps us understand the cultural and political history of South Asia.
  1. Verify specific auction histories, sale dates, buyers and prices for objects attributed to Tipu Sultan (including any auctions that fetched £175,000) and document primary provenance sources.
  2. Confirm current display locations and specific major items from Nizam and Mysore collections (e.g., which objects are on permanent display at Chowmahalla Palace and the Salar Jung Museum).

FAQs about Old Jewelry

Was Razia Sultana the first female ruler in the Muslim world?
Razia Sultana was one of the few medieval Muslim women to rule in South Asia and the only woman to rule the Delhi Sultanate, but she was not the "first" female ruler across the entire Muslim world.
What happened to the Mughal Peacock Throne?
Shah Jahan's Peacock Throne, famed for its gemstones and craftsmanship, was taken by Persian ruler Nader Shah in 1739 and has not survived intact; descriptions and some fragments inform our understanding of it today.
Are Tipu Sultan’s possessions still in India?
Some objects related to Tipu Sultan remain in Indian museums and palaces, while others entered British collections or surfaced at auction. Individual pieces have complex provenances that should be checked in museum records or auction catalogs.
Where can I see historic Indian royal jewelry today?
Significant displays include regional palaces and major museums - examples are Hyderabad's Chowmahalla Palace and the Salar Jung Museum - alongside national museums across India and selected international collections.
Why were so many jewels lost or dispersed?
Repeated wars, looting, political upheaval and colonial transfers led to the loss, dispersal or sale of many royal jewels. Economic pressures and changing political power also prompted rulers to sell or move treasures.

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