This updated guide explains how to evaluate pearl earrings by luster, nacre, surface, shape, color, and size. It outlines major cultured pearl types (Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea, freshwater), offers basic care tips, and gives buying advice to help you choose pearls that suit your style and budget.

Pearl earrings remain a timeless choice because of their subtle glow and organic origin. When choosing pearls, focus on a few consistent factors: luster, surface quality, shape, color, and size. These traits determine a pearl's appearance and value.

Luster and nacre

Luster is the most important attribute. It's the inner glow and surface brilliance that make a pearl appear alive. Strong luster usually means thicker, well-formed nacre (the layers the mollusk deposits). Pearls with weak luster look chalky or washed out at a distance.

Surface quality

Examine the surface from arm's length. Clean, smooth surfaces score higher. Small natural blemishes are common - pearls are organic and rarely flawless. Avoid pearls with visible cracks or flaking nacre, which indicate damage.

Shape and style

Perfectly round pearls are the classic, and rounder shapes are generally more valuable. Off-round, button, drop, semi-baroque, and baroque shapes can still be beautiful and often cost less than rounds. Baroque shapes offer unique character and work well in contemporary earring designs.

Color and overtones

Pearls come in many base colors - from white and cream to gray, silver, and black - with subtle overtones (rose, green, blue). Color is a personal choice; consider skin tone and metal color when pairing pearls with settings.

Size

Pearl diameter is measured in millimeters. Larger pearls are rarer and typically command higher prices when other factors (luster, surface, shape) are equal.

Types of cultured pearls

Most pearls sold today are cultured - produced by mollusks under human guidance. Saltwater types include Akoya (classic white luster), Tahitian (dark/green/gray tones), and South Sea (large, often white or golden). Freshwater pearls are typically farmed in mussels and are available in many shapes and sizes. Many freshwater pearls are affordable because of large-scale production, while saltwater varieties often cost more by comparison.

Care basics

Pearls are softer than most gemstones. Avoid chemicals (perfume, hairspray, household cleaners), wipe pearls with a soft cloth after wear, and store them separately to prevent scratching.

Final tips

Compare pearls under good, natural light. Prioritize luster and surface condition over perfect roundness unless you need a formal, traditional look. If in doubt, buy from reputable jewelers and ask about return policies and any grading documentation.

  1. Confirm current prevalence of bead-nucleation vs tissue-culturing practices in freshwater pearl production (China and other major producers) as of 2025 and update the phrasing about why freshwater pearls are generally more affordable.

FAQs about Pearl Earrings

How can I tell if a pearl earring is real or an imitation?
Real cultured pearls show natural luster, slight surface imperfections, and a depth to their glow that imitation (painted shell or glass) lacks. Ask the seller for details about origin and buy from reputable jewelers. Professional testing or appraisal confirms authenticity.
What’s the main difference between freshwater and saltwater pearls?
Freshwater pearls are typically farmed in mussels and come in many shapes and sizes at generally lower prices. Saltwater pearls (Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea) are grown in oysters and often have higher luster and price. Choice depends on your budget and the look you want.
How should I care for my pearl earrings?
Avoid contact with perfumes, hairsprays, and harsh chemicals. Wipe pearls with a soft cloth after wearing, store them separately to prevent scratches, and restring pearl strands periodically if worn often.
Are baroque pearls less valuable than round pearls?
Round pearls generally command higher prices, but baroque pearls have unique shapes and can be highly desirable, especially in contemporary designs. Value depends on luster, surface, and overall visual appeal.