Hardwood floor finishes are divided into surface (film) finishes - like oil-modified and water-based polyurethanes, moisture-cured urethanes and conversion varnishes - and penetrating finishes such as tung or polymerizing oils and wax systems. Surface finishes form a protective top layer and are durable and easy to clean. Penetrating finishes soak into the wood for a natural look and are easier to repair locally but usually require more maintenance. Trends favor low-VOC, water-based products, while moisture-cured and conversion systems remain professional options. Verify current product specifications, drying times, VOC limits, and local finishing costs before you begin.
Overview
Older guides often quoted finishing hardwood floors at around $1.50 per square foot. Costs and products have changed since then, so check current local prices before budgeting.
Finishes fall into two broad families: surface (film) finishes and penetrating finishes. Each protects the wood differently, creates different looks, and requires different maintenance.
Surface (film) finishes
Surface finishes form a protective film on top of the wood. They're popular because they resist wear, are relatively easy to clean, and can be recoated without sanding in many cases.
Common surface finishes:
- Oil-modified polyurethane (oil-based urethane): Traditionally common, it leaves a slightly amber tone that deepens over time. Dry times are longer than water-based products and fumes are stronger, so ventilate well during application.
- Water-based polyurethane: Lower odor, lower VOCs, and much clearer (less ambering) than oil-based formulas. Modern water-based systems dry faster and are widely used for both DIY and professional jobs.
- Moisture-cured urethane (MCU) and conversion varnish: Extremely durable, used primarily by professionals. They resist moisture and heavy wear but require careful application and strong ventilation due to high solvents and VOCs.
Penetrating finishes
Penetrating finishes soak into the wood rather than forming a surface film. They often involve an oil that is allowed to penetrate, followed by a wax or buffing step to achieve the desired sheen.
Examples and characteristics:
- Natural oils (tung, polymerizing oils): Penetrate and harden within the wood. They can give a natural, low-sheen look and are easier to repair locally but usually require more frequent maintenance.
- Oil-based systems followed by wax: Produce a softer, low-gloss appearance. Wax may need periodic reapplication and can be sensitive to some cleaners.
- Single-coat oil finishes (modern polymerizing oils): Offer a middle ground - easier to apply than film finishes and more durable than traditional waxed oils.
Choosing and maintaining a finish
Match the finish to the room's use: high-traffic areas benefit from durable film finishes; living spaces where a natural look and easier spot repairs matter may suit penetrating oils.
Safety and regulations: Many regions now favor low-VOC or water-based products. Some high-VOC finishes are restricted or require professional application. Always follow manufacturer instructions and local regulations.
Maintenance: Clean with a pH-neutral hardwood cleaner recommended for your finish. Film finishes can be lightly sanded and recoated; penetrating finishes usually need periodic oil or wax top-ups.
Final note
Products and regulations evolve. Confirm finish performance, drying times, VOC content, and local cost estimates before you start. 1
- Confirm current average cost per square foot for professional hardwood floor refinishing in 2025 for the intended market/region.
- Verify any local or regional VOC restrictions that affect high-VOC finishes and whether moisture-cured urethanes require professional-only application in your jurisdiction.