Metal edging (galvanized, corten, or aluminum) offers greater long-term rigidity and a low-profile look when installed correctly, while plastic edging is budget-friendly and flexible but prone to movement and UV wear. Proper trenching, staking, and burying reduce shifting for both materials. For high-traffic areas consider heavy-duty metal, masonry, or composite options.
Why edging matters
Landscape edging defines lawn and bed lines, reduces grass intrusion into planting areas, and creates a polished yard edge. Two common choices are metal and plastic (vinyl/polyethylene) edging. Each has trade-offs in durability, cost, and installation effort.
Metal edging: strengths and caveats
Metal edging (galvanized steel, corten/weathering steel, or aluminum) is durable and holds a clean, crisp line. Properly installed, metal resists garden traffic and blade damage better than inexpensive plastics. It also allows for low-profile, subtle edges that won't distract from plantings.
However, metal requires correct installation. If set too shallow it can be bent or hit by a lawnmower. Sharp cut edges can be a hazard if they're exposed. Many professionals recommend burying metal edging so a portion stays below grade to anchor it; recommended depths vary by product and site conditions .
Galvanized or polymer-coated steel resists corrosion; corten steel intentionally weathers to a rusted finish. Aluminum is lighter and won't rust but is softer and can dent under impact.
Plastic edging: low cost, more movement
Plastic (vinyl or polyethylene) edging is inexpensive and easy to install. It's flexible, which makes it useful for curves, and it's less likely to cause cuts. But low-cost plastic is more prone to shifting, warping, and UV degradation over time, especially in full sun. Flexible plastic can rise with freeze-thaw cycles or settle with soil movement, producing uneven edges that catch mower blades.
Plastic can be secured with stakes and by compacting backfill, but it typically does not match metal for long-term rigidity.
Installation tips to reduce problems
- Trench before you install: a shallow trench with a compacted base helps sit the edging straight and resist movement.
- Use stakes or spikes designed for the edging material; heavy-duty steel stakes anchor metal well.
- Bury enough of the border to resist leverage from a mower or foot traffic; recommended burial depth depends on product and load conditions 1.
- File or cap exposed metal cuts to reduce sharp edges.
Alternatives to consider
If you want permanence or a different look, consider brick pavers, poured concrete curbs, stacked stone, or composite/rubber edging. These options range in price and permanence but can solve problems of shifting and visibility.
Bottom line
Choose metal if you want a long-lasting, low-profile edge and are willing to install it properly. Choose plastic for a low-cost, easy-to-install solution on gentle slopes and light-use areas. For high-traffic or mower-prone edges, consider heavier metal, masonry, or composite alternatives.
- Confirm recommended burial/installation depths for common metal and plastic edging products (manufacturer guidance).
- Verify typical lifespan ranges of galvanized steel, corten steel, aluminum, PVC/vinyl, and polyethylene edging under outdoor conditions.
- Confirm best-practice anchoring methods and stake types for different edging materials.
FAQs about Metal Landscape Edging
Which edging lasts longer: metal or plastic?
How deep should I bury landscape edging?
Can plastic edging harm my lawnmower?
Are there finishes that prevent metal from rusting?
When should I choose alternatives like brick or concrete?
News about Metal Landscape Edging
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