Ferrets need roomy, secure, and well-ventilated housing with cozy sleeping areas and enrichment. While purpose-built ferret cages are more available now, many owners successfully adapt rabbit cages - taking care to use narrow wire spacing, reinforce joins for multi-level setups, and protect vulnerable wood. Travel carriers should be ventilated, quick to access, and chew- and tip-resistant. Regular inspection and washable bedding make maintenance easier.

Why ferret-specific housing matters

Ferrets are active, curious, and skilled escape artists. They need roomy, well-ventilated housing with a cozy, dry sleeping area and secure closures. While many people adapt small-animal cages, choosing or building the right layout and materials keeps ferrets safe and comfortable.

Choosing or adapting an existing cage

Specialized ferret cages and multi-level enclosures are more widely available today through pet retailers and online stores, but some owners still adapt rabbit or guinea pig cages. If you adapt another small-animal cage, check the wire mesh spacing carefully to prevent squeezing through or getting stuck - use narrow spacing; confirm current recommendations for maximum gap size .

Avoid wooden floors or parts in areas the ferret will chew; ferrets can gnaw wood and damage latches. Replace or cover vulnerable wooden surfaces with chew-resistant materials (metal, hard plastic, or sealed wood).

Two-level enclosures and enrichment

Ferrets benefit from vertical space and routes to explore. A two-level cage with a snug sleeping nook and ramps, platforms, and tubes allows exercise during waking hours. Owners commonly stack two compatible rabbit cages and cut an access hole between them to create a DIY two-story setup, sealing seams securely and reinforcing joins to prevent gaps.

Include a soft sleeping box elevated from drafts, and provide tunnels and hideaways for enrichment. Keep ramp angles shallow and surfaces slip-resistant.

Travel carriers: safe, ventilated, and secure

For short-term transport (vet visits, day trips, or ferreting), use a purpose-built carrier or a sturdy homemade box with good ventilation, a secure latch, and a flat, stable base. The carrier should allow quick access in an emergency and be strong enough that the ferret cannot tip or chew through it. Use strong webbing or a padded strap that won't cut into your shoulder.

Modern carriers often use metal grates and reinforced plastic. If building your own, avoid untreated wood and ensure all ventilation holes are too small for paws or teeth to pass through.

Security, cleaning, and placement

Choose latches and fasteners ferrets cannot manipulate. Line floors with washable bedding, and make the cage easy to remove and clean. Place the enclosure away from damp, cold drafts and direct heat sources. Regularly inspect for chewing damage, sharp edges, and loose wires.

Quick checklist

  • Use narrow wire spacing (verify current guidance) 1.
  • Prefer multi-level layouts with ramps and hideouts.
  • Reinforce joins when stacking cages.
  • Use chew-resistant materials on doors and exposed wood.
  • Travel carriers: ventilated, quick-access, secure latches, flat base.
With thoughtful adaptation or a purpose-built cage, you can provide a safe, stimulating home for an active ferret.
  1. Confirm recommended maximum wire spacing for ferret-safe cages (current guidance on acceptable bar/gap dimensions).

FAQs about Ferret Cages

Can I use a rabbit cage for ferrets?
Yes, many people adapt rabbit cages, but you must ensure the wire spacing is narrow enough to prevent escapes, reinforce joins if stacking cages to make multiple levels, and protect or replace wooden parts that ferrets might chew.
How do I make a two-level ferret enclosure?
Common DIY methods include stacking two compatible cages, cutting an access hole between them, and securely joining the seams. Add ramps, platforms, and a snug sleeping area, and reinforce all connections to prevent gaps.
What should a travel carrier for a ferret include?
A good travel carrier is sturdy, ventilated, secure (escape-proof latches), easy to open for quick access, has a flat base to prevent tipping, and uses materials the ferret cannot chew through.
Are wooden cages safe for ferrets?
Untreated or thin wood is vulnerable to ferret chewing and moisture damage. If wood is used, seal it properly or cover it with chew-resistant materials like metal or hard plastic in exposed areas.
How often should I inspect a ferret cage?
Inspect the enclosure regularly for loose wires, damaged latches, chewing damage, and sharp edges. Also check bedding and cleanliness weekly or more often if needed.