Hardwood floors wear unevenly; use the water bead test to decide between cleaning, screening (recoat), or a full sand-and-refinish. Screening restores surface protection with less dust when the old finish is intact. Full sanding removes damaged finish and allows new stain. Choose finishes (water-based for faster drying and less ambering; oil-based for a warmer tone) and test samples on the actual species. Engineered floors have limited sanding cycles. Professionals offer dust control and consistent results; experienced DIYers can rent equipment and follow proper sanding progression.

Why refinish hardwood floors?

Hardwood is one of the most practical, long-lasting floor materials. Over time, traffic areas lose their protective finish, scratches build up, and colors can dull - especially if the boards were previously covered by carpet. Refinishing restores appearance and makes floors easier to maintain.

Quick test: is a full refinish necessary?

Stand in a high-traffic area and pour a tablespoon of water on the floor. If the water beads, the finish is still intact and you likely only need cleaning or spot repairs. If the water soaks in slowly and darkens the wood, the finish is partially worn and a recoat (screen and recoat) or full sanding may be needed. If the wood absorbs the water immediately, the finish has failed and a full sand-and-refinish is usually required.

Screening (recoat) vs. full sanding

Screening, also called buff-and-coat, is a light abrasion that removes surface scratches and prepares the finish to accept a new topcoat. It's faster, cheaper, and creates much less dust than a full sand. It works when the finish is thin but still adherent.

Full sanding removes the old finish and surface scratches, exposing bare wood for stain and a new finish. Use full sanding when the finish is gone in many areas, when you want to change the stain color substantially, or when floors have deep damage.

Modern finishes and what to consider

Water-based polyurethane dries faster, has lower odor and less ambering over time than oil-based polyurethanes. Oil-based finishes still darken wood and may offer a slightly harder film in some formulations. There are also low-VOC and rapid-dry options. Test finishes on a scrap or inconspicuous area before committing.

Species and engineered floors

Stain and finish appearance varies by wood species and grain. Test samples on the same species to judge color. Engineered hardwood has a thin hardwood veneer over a plywood core; it can be refinished only a limited number of times depending on veneer thickness. Confirm your floor's construction before planning multiple sanding passes.

DIY vs. hiring a pro

Professionals bring experience, specialized equipment (edgers, buffers, and dust control systems), and consistent results. DIY is feasible for experienced homeowners who rent proper sanders, understand grit progression, and can control dust. For large areas, complex layouts, or historic floors, consider a pro.

Practical tips

  • Try stain and finish samples on the actual boards.
  • Use progressive sanding grits; don't skip grits.
  • Allow recommended dry times and acclimate finishes to room temperature.
  • If you rent equipment, opt for machines with dust-collection.
  • Be mindful of veneer thickness on engineered products.
Refinishing brings worn hardwood back to life when you match the method (screen vs. sand), finish type, and care to the condition of your floor and the species you have.

FAQs about Refinish Hardwood Floors

How can I tell if my hardwood floor needs a full refinish?
Do the water test in a high-traffic area: if water beads, the finish is intact; if it soaks in slowly and darkens the wood, consider a screen and recoat; if it absorbs immediately, plan a full sand-and-refinish.
What’s the difference between screening and full sanding?
Screening (buff-and-coat) lightly abrades the existing finish so a new topcoat bonds; it's faster and less dusty. Full sanding removes old finish and surface damage down to bare wood, allowing new stain but creating more dust and requiring more skill.
Which finish should I choose: water-based or oil-based?
Water-based finishes dry faster, have lower odor and less ambering over time. Oil-based finishes tend to deepen wood tone. Test both on scrap wood or an inconspicuous area to judge appearance and drying time.
Can engineered hardwood be refinished?
It depends on the veneer thickness. Solid hardwood can be sanded multiple times; engineered floors have limited sanding cycles based on the top-layer thickness, so confirm construction before planning full sanding.
Should I hire a professional or do it myself?
Professionals provide experience, consistent results, and dust-control equipment. DIY is possible for experienced homeowners who rent appropriate machines, follow grit progression, and can manage dust.